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Did she think about stopping? An established journalist before becoming a celebrity cook, she prefers to write her own articles; after all, when you write your own copy you are in control. I often think about a line in How To Cook, about saving ham bones to flavour future soups: “It may make your freezer look like Dennis Nilsen’s, but that’s a small price to pay.” In her new book, Cook, Eat, Repeat, Lawson’s first in three years, she says that she so often puts reminders into her phone about chicken that whenever she writes “‘Ta’ the phone autocompletes it as ‘Take chicken out of fridge’, no matter if what I actually intended was ‘Tax return’”. After losing her mother at 25, Lawson’s sister Thomasina, to whom she was especially close, died at the age of 31 from breast cancer, when Lawson was nine months pregnant with her first child. She has also kept much of the same team on her books throughout her career; she likes, she says, to have “a work family”. I have a Vegemite sandwich if you want it,” she asks, returning to Mark. “I just think matzos is a really good vehicle for other things, like butter with Maldon salt, or Roquefort,” she says. There have been bag after bag of them in the fridge since the first Turkish fruits arrived at my greengrocer’s in May. Trickle the icing over the tarts and leave to lightly set. Would she have believed back then that she’d be happy in six years’ time? The usual explanation for Lawson’s enormous success in the late 1990s is that she reassured an anxious public that cooking at home needn’t be like cooking in a restaurant. Another friend of Lawson’s, who stayed close throughout her marriage to Saatchi, concurs: “Let’s just say there weren’t cosy dinners in the kitchen any more.” Saatchi is a gazillionaire, and yet, throughout their marriage, Lawson continued to work. • Nigella Lawson’s book Cook, Eat, Repeat is published by Chatto & Windus on 29 October, at £26. As a child, food was “a horror”. Gooseberry Trifle Another gooseberry trifle, this … 1 pound strawberries, hulled. Taking pleasure in food is not just about cooking – it’s about thinking, ‘I’ve got myself something delicious’.”. “And that really does surprise me, because I didn’t think [happiness] was one of my gifts,” she says. But if you feel you would stay there for ever, you have to push on,” she says. Place them in the fridge. Clothes styling: Kara Kyne. There have been cherry compotes, the stoned fruits stewed with (very little) sugar and water, or perhaps a dash of elderflower cordial to add depth and effervescence. These had been on my mind since I picked up this book on Tuesday in Costco. But I’m very happy not having to fill up my life going to things. But she is also very aware of the risks of teetering into self-parody, a line she has arguably crossed in the past on TV (see previously mentioned spoon-licking, and the many, many “Nigella does sexy cooking” mashups on YouTube). Tiny tarts travel better and are easy to tuck in between our sandwiches and scarlet-wrapped Tunnock’s wafers. The cherries have been extraordinary this year. A cherry at room temperature doesn’t do it for me. Asked to give evidence, Lawson admitted that she had used drugs in order to make “an intolerable situation bearable”, describing her former husband of almost a decade as “a brilliant but brutal man” who had subjected her to “intimate terrorism”. Preheat oven to 375ºF. “It was hard. “He had this sense of ease in himself, and that made the air around him comfortable,” Lawson says. I think it’s very hard [looking back on that time] without feeling that thing in your throat, because it was taken away, so it’s quite hard to locate the happiness.” Diamond died in 2001. I love it with berries or apricots in summer, in spring it’s good with rhubarb, and in autumn I use half blackberries and half apples. He was diagnosed with cancer at 43, when their children were still babies, and his first thought was for Lawson, who had already been through so much. Phone orders min. This delicious tart is filled with the flavors of summer! Lawson recently recorded the audiobook for How To Eat, to mark its 20th anniversary, returning to many little references to her home life with Diamond, and found it “incredibly exhausting, all the quick denial and blocking of emotions. She has been talking about her love of that, and her abject terror that someone in her vicinity might be slightly peckish, for three decades now, ever since the publication of her first cookbook, 1998’s. Well, of course she is: the only thing that would be more on brand would be if she were suggestively licking a spoon. Whiz the flour and butter in a food processor until the mixture resembles fine fresh breadcrumbs. Sieve the icing sugar into a small bowl and stir in the elderflower cordial. Two years later, Lawson married Saatchi. Years later, no matter how bad things got in adulthood, she knew they would improve, because “nothing could be as bad as childhood”. Bring to a ball with your hands then wrap in greaseproof paper or clingfilm and chill for 20 minutes. “Well, it’s a bit of a Jewish thing, isn’t it?” she says quietly, knowing we are both Jewish. 1/4 cup caster sugar. Lawson divorced him shortly afterwards, but her private life was laid more bare than ever just a few months later, when the couple’s former assistants, Francesca and Elisabetta Grillo, were taken to court, accused of stealing hundreds of thousands of pounds using the household’s credit cards. Top with the crumble mixture and bake for 20-30 minutes, or until the topping is golden-brown. The losses she has endured in adulthood verge on the gothic. 1.25 litre capacity) / 8 inches diameter x 2 inches deep (approx. It’s not a choice, it’s the person I am.’, igella Lawson – Britain’s only true “surname unnecessary” global celebrity since Princess Diana – is feeding everyone. To order a copy for £22.62, visit the Guardian Bookshop . They’re not coping on the inside and they’re coping on the outside’.”. For the compote:cherries 200gcaster sugar 4 tbspwhite vermouth 4 tbspTo serve:flaked almonds a large handfulgoat’s curd 250glemon zest 1 tspcrispbread or flatbread. It hasn’t, she says, always been that way. But it must have been odd to be writing recipes in April when people were queueing to get into supermarkets, I say. No one should feel guilty about what they eat, or the pleasure they get from eating; the only thing to feel guilty about (and even then I don’t recommend it) is the failure to … The couple had a fraught relationship. Peach Crumble is a community recipe submitted by juicyorange and has not been tested by Nigella.com so we are not able to answer questions regarding this recipe. I like mine hot and syrupy under a soft pastry crust, or ice-cold, so their skins tighten and their juice spurts down your shirt like blood from a deep cut. When people say, ‘How is so-and-so coping?’ I always think, ‘How do you feel they’re coping? “The trouble with modern cooking is that the mood it induces in the cook is one of skin-of-the-teeth efficiency, all briskness and little pleasure,” she writes in 2000’s How To Be A Domestic Goddess. Deselect All. Remove from the oven when the filling is lightly firm and the pastry golden brown. “I know, and I used to feel, what a luxury, to not cope on the outside. When he lost his voice, Lawson had to be his translator to the world. Watch them carefully. It was at this point, when Diamond could no longer swallow food, that Lawson wrote, at her husband’s suggestion, How To Eat. Author: Nigella Lawson. Great scoop: cherries, toasted almonds, goat’s curf. When they’re ready, set them aside. Scatter the almonds in a single layer in a shallow pan and toast over a moderate heat until golden. '*OVER 150 DELICIOUS NEW RECIPES*NEW TV SERIES, COOK, EAT, REPEAT, NOW ON BBC TWOCook, Eat, Repeat is a delicious and delightful combination of recipes intertwined with narrative essays about food, all written in Nigella's engaging and insightful prose. I didn’t have an eating disorder, but I really hated family mealtimes. 21cm diameter x 4cm deep (approx. Her father was a journalist then, and her mother, Vanessa Salmon, an heiress. So when she emailed, suggesting a drink, I piled on the makeup, expecting a fearsome glamazon. But the truth is, Delia Smith already had that covered. We have eaten cherries all summer long. As well as the book, she has a new TV series, filmed with largely the same crew she has worked with since the early 2000s. Summer is coming to an end and you can already find traces of Fall here n there with the greenery slowly turning orange and yellow. Place scoops of goat’s curd on each of 4 plates with some of the toasted almonds, the compote and, if you wish, a little crispbread or flatbread. Also, she is funny, an underrated quality in cookbooks. “When I was really young, I hated being saddled with such a distinctive name. Lawson is on the case like the fifth emergency service. “With John, you used to see her at dinner parties and things. Set the oven at 200C/gas mark 6. Fold in the cherries and then the milk and spoon the thick mixture into a lined and buttered loaf tin (23 x 13 x 7cm / 9 x 5 x 3 inches) and bake for ¾-1 hour, or until a cake-tester comes out clean. • Nigella Lawson’s book Cook, Eat, Repeat is published by Chatto & Windus on 29 October, at £26. 1/4 cup almond meal/flour. Lower the heat, let the cherries simmer for about 10 minutes, until they are soft and the juice is a deep burgundy colour and almost jam like. But all that cookery-porn nonsense was always just for the TV shows; feeding actual people is a different matter. From Nigella Christmas (Chatto & Windus, £20). But sometimes people don’t cope on the outside, either. Those with a sweet tooth will delight in Chocolate, Tahini and Banana Pudding; Chocolate Peanut Butter Cake; Basque Burnt Cheesecake; and Cherry and Almond Crumble. When Diamond died of cancer, she took just two weeks off from filming her show, although she later said she had depression afterwards. Obviously any sort of fruit can be used here. May I suggest a jug of cream here? To order a copy for £22.62, visit the Guardian Bookshop. he cherries have been extraordinary this year. It’s easy to assume that we know Lawson. By all accounts, they made an endearing couple: he the naughty East End Jewish boy, she the quiet society beauty. Did she ever resent her father for lumbering her with what was essentially his name? Photograph: Felicity Cloake. The TV programme Nigella’s Cook, Eat, Repeat will air in November on BBC Two and BBC iPlayer. Both the show and the book feel brilliantly, though accidentally, well-timed; what else are we all going to do this winter but stay home and read, cook and watch TV? It’s more fun, she adds, to be “trailing nutmeggy fumes of baking pie in our languorous wake… winning adoring glances and endless approbation”. Put the cherries in a small saucepan with the sugar and vermouth and bring to the boil. She has been around for so long, letting us into her own kitchen (in the first TV series) and then simulacrums thereon afterwards, her face perfectly lit by the glow of her giant refrigerator, or the fairy lights decked around her elegant garden. And after 60 years of being a ruminator, it’s an amazing thing. I never thought I had that freedom. With a few little swaps you can save yourself some calories for the ice cream or custard. 'Food, for me, is a constant pleasure: I like to think greedily about it, reflect deeply on it, learn from it; it provides comfort, inspiration, meaning and beauty, as well as sustenance and structure. Hairy Biker tip: You can add 50g of oats to the crumble mixture for a bit of extra chewiness. “Do you want some Twiglets? Since you never know when you might be in urgent need of a crumble, I make up enough topping for at least 4 of these and let it sit safely in the freezer until required. Made with fresh cherries, its easy to make, and is incredible with a big scoop of ice cream! This must-bake muffin recipe has hints of sweet cinnamon, flaked almonds and deep cherries. She hesitates and then says, “I’m not sure I would have thought I’d be a mended person, which I am.”, Did she feel under pressure to maintain a strong image during the trial? “That’s the point of life, isn’t it? Crumble is really all about the topping and instead of using butter and flour, we used ground almonds, oats and a little bit of coconut oil. Gradually add the beaten eggs and almond essence, then gently fold in the flour and almond meal. Nigella Lawson’s new book, Cook, Eat, Repeat, grabbing her by the throat and holding her nose. Leave the tarts to settle for 5 minutes before carefully removing them for their tins to a cooling rack set over a tray. She can hide behind that whole public persona,” says her friend, the actor Maria McErlane. Hair and makeup: Tricia Woolston. Cherry Almond Crumble Tart. “I don’t know if it was the calm of lockdown, or getting older, but I’ve stopped looking back on the past an awful lot. See below for the recipe. Last modified on Sat 10 Oct 2020 11.51 BST. Sprinkle it … (Instead she credits her complexion to “no sun and eating lots of fats”.) Bake the tarts for 25 minutes, the tray sitting on the heated baking sheet to ensure the bases cook crisply. Roll the pastry out to the thickness of a 10p piece then use a biscuit cutter to make discs of pastry, pressing each into the patty tins as you go. Nigella will hopefully have a TV series alongside the book publication. I’m not going to be that thin,’” Lawson says. “Writing about food when you’re married to someone who can’t eat – that was odd. “She was one of those people who was full of stress and anxiety,” Lawson says. The couple met on the Sunday Times, where she was the deputy literary editor and he was a writer, and fell deeply in love. Those compotes were stirred, in deep crimson swirls, into breakfast yogurt or dishes of chilled custard. Makes 18. “I do find a lot of the stuff that is considered normal takes a lot of emotional effort for me,” she says. With her second husband, Charles Saatchi, in 2009. When life is taking away your happiness, you hold on to the few pleasures you can control. Dice the butter, put it into the bowl of a food mixer and add the caster sugar. They should be a soft froth rather than have the capability of standing in stiff peaks. “Nigella has always been very shy and private – people never get that about her, and they think it’s haughtiness. Nigella's crumble - frozen topping equals crunch. “I don’t know, my mother died at 48,” she replies briskly. So much of her personal life has been played out in public, from her parents ensuring everyone would know who her famous father is whenever she introduced herself; to her first husband, John Diamond, charting the last years of his life with her and their two small children, Cosima and Bruno, before he died of throat cancer at the age of 47; to her second marriage to Charles Saatchi, which ended in a brutally public manner in 2013, when Saatchi was photographed grabbing her by the throat and holding her nose outside the London restaurant Scott’s. To this day, she often imagines she’s telling Thomasina her recipes when she’s writing her books. There were three varieties this week: fat, glossy gobstoppers from the US, a box of small, sharper fruits from Turkey and a tray of dark-fleshed beauties from Britain. I ask her why, back in 2014, she wanted to meet me. Whatever fruit you use, though, the great thing about the topping is that it bakes to a lovely short, crumbly crispness, which, combined with the toasted Email Nigel at nigel.slater@observer.co.uk or follow him on Twitter @NigelSlater. By and large, my way of tackling gluten-free baking is simply to exclude flour altogether. “I’m very happy at last.”. When we think of Lawson, we think of her hosting those lovely dinner parties on her show, surrounded by people and noise. Recipe Tips. Gluten-Free. (The mixture will be fine left to stand while the first batch bakes.). Nigella Lawson with her father, Nigel, mother, Vanessa, and sister, Thomasina, in 1965. I like mine hot and syrupy under a soft pastry crust, or ice-cold, so their skins tighten and their juice spurts down your shirt like blood from a deep cut. Serve immediately with cream or custard. Instead, Lawson – like Nigel Slater, who gained prominence in the mid-90s – offers beautiful writing that makes you want to read her books as much as cook from them. The American fruits tasted like boiled sweets – so I bought the others, devouring a bagful on the way, arriving at my front door with a pocket full of stones. Erm, Cherry and Almond Crumble? “I think it’s about keeping a bit of yourself there.” When she divorced Saatchi, she asked for no money, only the contents of the kitchen. Crunchy on the Top n Juicy on the Inside… A Delicious Fruit Dessert…! For the topping: Heaping 2/3 cup all-purpose flour “I’m not going to answer that!” Most pleasing to her, she’s stopped being “a ruminator”. Well, of course she is: the only thing that would be more on brand would be if she were suggestively licking a spoon. Friends recall cosy dinners round theirs with Diamond, the ebullient host, and Lawson quietly enjoying herself by his side, learning from him how to be comfortable in herself. Cherry almond tarts . Even in a black jumpsuit (“I’m the sucker who buys things from Instagram ads”) and Birkenstocks (“the only shoes I’ve worn for months”) she has a slightly regal air that brings to mind a queen distributing food to the masses. This week my plan had been to make a cherry Bakewell, a wide, round tart with a layer of jam and another of thin, golden icing, but instead I made small ones we could tuck into our lunchboxes for a train journey to Scotland. Yes please. Nigella Lawson: ‘I didn't think I’d be a mended person, but I am’, Nigella Lawson: ‘You plough on. Is it genetic? Alongside a sneak peak at the book’s cover, Nigella explained what this book is all about, and even teased some recipes that can be found in Cook, Eat, Repeat. Add the sugar and ground almonds. ... Rice Pudding Cake; and Cherry and Almond Crumble. “You know, if you knock something over it will be difficult, and I’m clumsy… ” Her mother liked to cook, but didn’t really allow herself to eat what she liked until she was dying, at the age of 48, from liver cancer. Also, I think, despite the shyness and public masks, Lawson wanted at least someone who had written about her ordeal to understand who she really is. ... Autorentext. Nigella Lawson – Britain’s only true “surname unnecessary” global celebrity since Princess Diana – is feeding everyone. Once I have had my fill I will take a tray of them into the kitchen for a pie, crumble or jam. Featured in NIGELLA EXPRESS. And the cakes that result make no apologies for the omission – they stand proudly in their own right and have more than earned their places in my cooking repertoire, as they should in yours. When she talks about the importance of hearth and home, it isn’t because her domestic situation is naturally blissful; it’s because she’s had to fight against circumstances and her own tendencies to make it so. Halve and stone the cherries, then stir them into the dry ingredients. She doesn’t worry so much about how she looks and now often wears jumpsuits, even though they are, she says (wrongly), “very unflattering on me. Preheat the oven to 200C/180°C Fan/gas mark 6/400ºF. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. And that’s how I feel about everything: you plough on. “It’s not an image, it’s an armour. But there is a gently melancholic air, with references to the kitchen as a safe space in turbulent times, and solitary suppers. I first met Lawson in 2014, a few months after the end of the case, and about a year after I’d written about the photos taken in front of Scott’s. “My attitude towards food is such a repudiation of her, a triumph over her, thinking, ‘I’m not going to play that game. Place a metal baking sheet in the oven to heat up. I tell her I admire her preparedness. If cherries are perfect, I do very little to them, tipping the fruit into a bowl of water and ice cubes for 20 minutes before we eat – a process which makes their juice all the more refreshing. Use ripe red plums for a beautiful ruby colour. I’d gone to meet her that night expecting to glean some fabulous life lessons; I came away worried about her, and we stayed in occasional email contact. Lightly whip the egg whites with a balloon whisk. Her friends talk about how she has developed “coping mechanisms” over the years, a term Lawson scoffs at, but I suspect at least one of these involves conserving her emotional energy and staying in with a bowl of crisps when she can. Nigella's plum crumble adds crunchy amaretti to the topping which makes it almondy and a little bit Italian. To order a copy for £17, go to bookshop.theguardian.com or call 0330 333 6846. Remove the stems from the cherries, halve the fruits and remove the stones. There are actually 2 recipes for apple crumble so I kind of mixed both recipes. Cherry and almond crumble ... To order a copy for £22.62, visit the Guardian Bookshop. It will also include essays from Nigella. Lawson with her late husband, John Diamond, in 2000. A cherry at room temperature doesn’t do it for me. Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/gas 6; Tip the frozen berries into a saucepan with half the sugar and place on a medium heat. 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